Essential Materials You Need to Get Started with Fly Tying
By John Harrington, Jr.
By John Harrington, Jr.
In part one of this double-feature series, I outlined the primary set of equipment that any aspiring fly tyer will need in order to get started, including a vise. If you haven’t caught up on the introductory article, I would recommend starting there. And you did happen to read it – you’re prepared to invest in your initial setup (if you didn’t already). So now, let’s jump into some essential materials needed to tie your own flies so you can make use of your new equipment and get out on the water faster.
If you’ve ever been to a fly shop, the materials section can be a little bit intimidating. For one, there’s a ton of inventory, and for every type of material there are many, many variations. It’s completely normal to feel overwhelmed, but don’t let it interfere with your pursuit to get started. In this article I’ll break it into chunks so it’s a little bit easier to navigate.
We’ll primarily use a euro nymph as an example since they are easy to get started with and they are very commonly used. But don’t worry, with each new fly you tie comes familiarity with the materials; in no time you will have a much better understanding of how it all comes together. One fly at a time!
In general, all flies require hooks and thread. The type of fly you are tying is going to determine how big of a hook, and how thick the diameter thread you will be using.
For hooks, the higher the number, the smaller the hook. If you are trout fishing, you will normally be fishing sizes 14 through 18 nymphs and dry flies (smaller streams with wild, spooky fish will call for smaller flies in the 20 range). Trout streamers, like Woolly Buggers, will typically be sizes 10 and below.
For thread, you will typically be using size 14/0 (or 32 denier) for those tiny size 20 range flies. For your average nymphs and dry flies, you will use 8/0 (or 70 denier) thread. Streamers will call for closer to 6/0 (or 140 denier thread).
Now, work backwards from the types of flies you wish to tie to determine which thread and hooks you will need. Once you’ve figured that out, you will want to pick different colors and variations that match the recipe.
So let’s say I wanted to tie a Frenchie euro nymph, I would pick out a jig-style barbless hook in the 14 to 18 size range. For thread, I would pick out a 8/0 or 6/0 thread in fluorescent pink, orange, or chartreuse so I can make my hotspot a little more prominent at the end of my tie.
Now, let’s pull on the thread of the euro nymph example a little more. I have the hooks and the thread I need, but what else? Since it’s a euro nymphing fly, I will need a way to get it down fast, so beads become very important. If I was tying a streamer, I would look to weighted eyes or cone heads for my flies to get the same sinking effect.
For my euro nymph pattern, I am going to pick out tungsten beads because they get down fast, but they also come in other varieties like glass or brass. It will depend on the type of pattern you are tying, so again, work backwards from what you intend to tie.
Just like thread, beads also come in different sizes to match the hook that you are using for your fly. If I decide to tie size 14 and size 18 frenchies, I will pick out 3/32 inch and 5/64 inch beads to pair with the hooks (respectively). Every fly recipe should specify the size of the bead to pair with your hook, and you will get the hang of it the more you tie. When in doubt, you can always eye ball it; trial and error always work once you have your materials back at home.
The nymph we’re going to tie for this example also uses a bit of thread tinsel and wire to get it down fast. For example, at the start of the fly we will put in a little bit of lead-free wire. Then, we’ll use a separate kind of ultra wire for ribbing. This has the added advantage of holding materials in place, and helps the fly stand out more in the water with a flash effect.
Can you believe we got this far without talking about feathers? You’re going to use them for the vast majority of flies you tie, it will all come down to the recipe you are following and sometimes personal preference. For the Frenchie fly we are pulling together materials for, we are going to go with a Pheasant Tail for multiple reasons. For one, we can use it to build the body of our fly. Secondly, we can get some additional juice from the squeeze by using it as the tail of the fly. If you want to get fancier and help your fly stand out a bit more in the water, Coq de Leon (also referred to as CDL) is a popular alternative choice for the tail.
When it comes to dubbing, I’m not referring to the language translation kind that you’ll experience when watching foreign movies…
In fly tying, dubbing is a very common and popular material. And since it’s often used with nymphs and streamers, you won’t be surprised to hear that we will need it for our Frenchie nymph that we’re gathering the materials for. Ice dub is a fantastic option to create a hotspot on subsurface patterns, and we’re going to go with a UV pink, orange, or chartreuse to make sure it really stands out.
Keep in mind that dubbing is not only used on nymphs and streamers, you’ll also use it to tie dry fly patterns. Some of them are even waterproofed to improve the buoyancy of your fly!
Well, maybe not everything. But we sure have enough material now to tie our first few flies, starting with the Frenchie euro nymph.
There are plenty of other types of materials – like chenilles and yarns… hair and fur… synthetics and flash. As you diversify the flies you are tying, you will learn about the broader variety of material types like these that are needed to tie different patterns. It’s an endless educational journey, but it is equal parts fun and fulfilling. I hope you found this two-part series useful, and happy tying!