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UV Tan Shrimp

UV Tan Shrimp

The original UV scud was invented by author and guide, Pat Dorsey. I’ve varied some of the materials he used in his original pattern to come up with my own variation. The UV tan shrimp has been a staple in my fly box for over a year now and I have caught numerous trout on this pattern, especially in small freestone streams with limestone influence and spring creeks, but it will work great on tailwaters and anywhere shrimp are present. I also fish this pattern in two different styles. One with a mottled tactical slotted tungsten bead, and one without a bead. I have found both to be just as effective, however the heavier version is more suited for euro nymphing or fished in a tight line system. The version without the bead is better suited for suspension nymphing (strike indicator).
The UV tan shrimp is a simple pattern to tie and looks great in the vice and even better in the water. Overall, the UV Tan shrimp is a great pattern to tie and fish. Shrimp are available to the trout all year round, so it makes sense to fish them often. For me personally, I fish shrimp all year long, especially in the fall and winter. Often, I will fish a double shrimp rig with my olive and orange hot spot shrimp on point with my UV tan shrimp on the tag. All the shrimp I tie are in size 14. That’s my #1 confidence size for this pattern!


Materials List:
Hook: TMC 2457, #14
Weight: .015 Lead wire
Thread: Veevus 12/0 - Tan
Ribbing: 4x Mono
Backing:1/8" Scud back - Tan
Tail/Antennae: Antron Yarn - Tan
Body: UV Ice Dub - Tan

1. Renzetti Cam Traveler 2000 Series Vice
2. Rite Standard Bobbin
3. Dr Slick All Purpose Tying Scissors
4. Loon Ergo Whip Finisher
5. Loon Ergo Dubbing Brush


Step #1: Take 14-15 wraps of .015 lead wire around the shank of the hook and secure with tying thread and make several wraps over the lead until the lead is completely covered. When you are done with this step, let your thread rest right behind the eye of the hook. 

Step #2: Secure a piece of tan Antron yarn right behind the hook eye by taking a pinch wrap. Slide the material backwards until you have about a hook gap of yarn protruding past the eye of the hook. Continue to secure the yarn down the hook shank and into the bend. Stop between the back edge of the hook bend and the barb. Trim the yarn to length. The length of the tail and the antenna should be equal to or slightly shorter than the gap of the hook. Wrap your thread back to about the hook point. 


Step #3: Secure a piece of 4x mono to the far side of the hook and wrap back to the base of the tail. Wrap the thread forward to about the hook point and let your bobbin rest.


Step #4: Secure a piece of 1/8” tan scud back to the hook and wrap back to the base of the tail. We are now ready to start dubbing our body.

Step #5: Take an ample pinch of UV tan ice dub and apply small clumps to the thread to form a small, tapered dubbing noodle. The noodle should be a couple inches long. Dub the body from the base of the tail to just behind the eye of the hook. Apply the dubbing somewhat loose to make it easy to pick out the dubbing for legs at a later step.

Step #6: Pull the scud back over the newly dubbed body and take a couple of thread wraps to lock the material in place. At this step, I like to throw in a quick whip finish or half hitch to make sure the material doesn’t slip out. Cut the excess scud back off clean. 


Step #7: Take evenly spaced wraps with the 4x mono up the hook shank and tie off with a few tight thread wraps. 5-6 wraps on a size 14 should produce a nice, evenly segmented body. Make sure to apply enough pressure to make an indent in the scud back for a more lifelike appearance. 


Step #8: Whip finish the fly to produce a small, neat head. Your fly is almost complete.

Step #9: Take your dubbing brush and brush out the body. Do this by moving the brush up and down against the body. This will loosen the dubbing and make the fibers long on the dubbed body. Trim the legs to length by making a cut even with the hook point and one cut from the hook point to the hook eye.


Step #10: Apply UV flow resin to the entirety of the casing and cure for 15 seconds with your favorite UV light. Here, I am using my Loon Infiniti Light. Your fly is now complete!!!


Thank you for reading my blog. Please feel free to leave any questions in the comments below.  


Jacob Gilliland works in the TCO - Boiling Springs shop and is a fly fishing guide for Relentless Fly Fishing.  To find out more about Jacob, check out his TCO Fly Fishing bio and his Relentless Fly Fishing bio. 

Call TCO at 717-609-0169, ext 5 to book a trip, or contact Jacob via email: 



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