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Fly Lines: Understanding the Most Overlooked Part of Your System

By George Costa

TCO Fly Shop

It’s a hard truth that the fly line is often the most ignored and neglected part of many anglers’ fly-fishing gear.  I’ve seen it time and time again where anglers put far too much focus on the rod and reel only to neglect the most integral part of the entire setup. It’s imperative to have a quality functioning fly line that properly matches your rod and fishing style to achieve fly angling success.

Anglers tend to get caught up on the rod and anticipate that it will improve the cast when in fact the fly line itself dictates how good your cast will be and how effective you will be at presenting the fly to the fish. I’ve seen many anglers complain about how they do not like a specific rod’s action but often the problem lies not in the rod itself, but in not having the proper line with the proper weight and taper selected for your rod. 

Let’s look at what a fly line does, how it affects casting and how to incorporate this knowledge into your everyday angling experience, make yourself a better angler and catch more fish!

A Crucial Component of Casting

A Crucial Component of Casting

Fly lines are what makes fly fishing what it is. In conventional fishing it’s the weight of the lure, sinker, or plug that forces the rod to bend during the cast. In fly fishing it’s the line itself that causes the rod to bend and deliver the fly to the target. If your fly line does not properly match your rod “weight” the rod will not “load” properly and will not flex to push the line out to the target. Imagine trying to throw a 1/8 oz. rooster tail on a tuna rod.  You will not have enough force, or mass, to cause the rod to bend and propel the line to the target. The same principle holds true for fly angling. This is what allows us to deliver virtually weightless flies to a target at a distance.

Getting to Know Fly Lines

Line weight, taper type and the lines’ function are consistent things on all packaging for fly lines. You’ll notice on the packaging numbers and letters, for example WF5F or DT5F.

WF stands for Weight Forward. This means all the “weight” of the fly line is distributed in what’s called the head of the fly line, the first 30 to 40’. The DT stands for Double Taper. These lines have all the weight distributed throughout the length of the line.

WF lines tend to be easier for most beginners to cast as they will load the rod quicker as the mass of the line head causes the rod to bend faster, load and shoot the line. They have the advantage of gaining more line speed and casting farther in most situations, especially windy conditions.

DT lines, because of even weight distribution, work best on slow/medium action rods as the consistent line taper loads those rods better offering a smoother cast. They are ideal for dry-fly situations as they tend to move slower through the air and have the advantage of a more delicate presentation.

The next thing you want to look for is the number on the packaging WF5F, this is the number that determines what weight rod the line is intended to match up to. Rod weights are determined by the manufacturer and assigned specific “weights” which correspond to the number of grains the rod can load with 20-30’ of line in the air. You can do what’s called “overlining” a rod by say putting a six-weight line on a five-weight rod. This works in situations where you have a faster action rod. Rarely do you want to “underline” a rod (WF4F line on a 5-weight rod) as you’ll not have enough mass to cast well. If you do not select a line that matches your rods grain window, your cast will suffer.  Rod manufacturers often produce rods that are “fast action” and often require more grains or weight in the line than maybe advertised. Modern fast-action rods often need a little more weight to get them to load and flex properly. Line producers have followed suit with this trend and are producing lines that even though are billed as a 5 weight, are closer to a 5.5 or 6 weight. This is where knowing specific line types and tapers come into play, and making the correct choice of line for your specific rod may take a bit of online research but you can always just ask your local fly shop employee!

The last few letters you’ll see on the packaging of most lines (WF5F) is the F, or sometimes an I, or even a S every now and then. They stand for Floating, Intermediate and Sinking. In 90% of all fly-fishing situations what you’ll want is a floating line. All dry fly, nymphing (except for still-water fishing) and a good portion of streamer fishing should be done with floating lines to ensure a good drift. Intermediate and Sinking lines are used almost exclusively for throwing streamers and occasionally for wet-fly or swinging fly presentations.

So, What Makes a Fly Line a Fly Line?

So, What Makes a Fly Line a Fly Line?

Know the Construction and Coating

The construction of a fly line starts with the core. The core is generally made of Dacron, braid or monofilament. That core is then coated with a PCV or plasticine coating to create what is called the taper of the line. Each manufacturer has its own unique formula for the coating. Some add microscopic beads to ensure the line floats, and every type has its own unique coating to keep the line slick, floating and protect it from the elements. This process and coating are what makes each brand unique and gives each line and each brand its individual properties.

Consider the Conditions

Lines are also specifically designed for either colder conditions or for warm water applications. A standard trout line you'd use for trout in April will not hold up in the heat of summer on your local bass pond. Lines that are designed to fish in cold water have a much more supple core as opposed to those designed for warmwater situations with stiffer cores intended to stand up to warm water conditions. You'll find that matching the type of line to your fishing environment will improve the castability of your line and result in a better cast and a more manageable line on the water.

Choose the Right Taper

The taper is the most important part of the line itself. Tapers vary greatly and the choice of what taper to use is imperative when selecting your line. If you are planning to use your line for primarily dry fly fishing, you'd want to choose a longer, more progressive taper to ensure a better presentation. If you're planning on throwing streamers, you'd need to select a line with a more compact or aggressive taper to help turn over bigger bulkier flies. There are quite a few lines that will give you the best of both worlds and be a good "all-around" taper, Rio Gold XP and Scientific Anglers Infinity Taper are two good choices for versatile lines.

Pick Whatever Color You’d Like

I often get asked about the color in a fly line and how that effects fishing, the short answer is for the most part it doesn't. Sure, there may be situations when having a "stealthy" line over, say, a bright orange one would be advantageous (think gin clear waters of New Zealand or a bright crystal blue Bahamian flat), but for the most part the fish should never see your line – that's what the leader is for, and a whole other conversation! What I do think is an advantage in color is a line that beginners can see on the water. A brighter colored line will give you the advantage of being able to track your line, mend when necessary, and maintain a good drift. This will result in learning the importance of the drift, and you'll find you catch more fish seeing the line on the water and learning proper line management. Lines are often color coded to show where the "head" of the line is. This is a helpful tool out on the flats where you need to load the line fast and make an accurate shot.

Adhere to These Maintenance Musts

Adhere to These Maintenance Musts

Fly lines are designed to last quite a while, but they do require some maintenance. Periodically cleaning your line with any one of the products available (Loon Line Speed, Rio AgentX, SA Dressing, etc.) will keep your line investment in tip-top shape and keep the line floating higher and shooting farther. Scientific Angler lines are designed to have the coating impregnated into the line itself and using the SA cleaning pads will help restore the floating properties by removing a microscopic layer of the line and the grit that’s accumulated on the surface. 

Contrary to what you’d expect, your freshwater fly lines are far dirtier than your saltwater fly lines. There’s far more grit and grime suspended in your local stream water than in a saltwater environment. A good rinse and soak in warm tap water will clean the salt off your line after a trip to the flats. You should be doing this every time you get back from a saltwater trip as dried salt on the line is a death knell. Freshwater anglers are notorious for not cleaning fly line, I know I am…although I do try and do it at least twice a year. 

If you notice that your line is no longer floating that’s a good indication that there may be cracks in the line and water is soaking into the core of the line. More times than I can count I’ve seen people come into the shop to buy a brand-spanking new reel for their $900 fly rod only to want to keep the old cracked and busted up fly-line their grandfather gave them when they were 12. You just spent $600 on the new Hatch reel, treat yourself to a new line! Your angling success will drastically improve with a new, clean and good quality line!

Picking Out the Right Fly Line

Picking Out the Right Fly Line

So, how do you know what line is right for you with all the brands, styles and varieties out there? Ask yourself a few key questions:

  1. Do you have a slow, medium or fast action rod – and what weight line the rod is designed to cast? This will determine what line to select based on brand and style. 
  2. Next, what kind of fishing do you plan on doing? Do you want a line for your dry fly rod, something for streamer fishing, or just an all-around line to get the job done in 99% of your fishing situations? This will determine what kind of taper you want.
  3. Consider selecting a line the rod was designed to cast. Many rod manufacturers use name brand lines to test and tune in the taper of the rod before going into production. For example, Sage uses Rio fly lines to develop rod tapers, and many Sage rods match best with Rio fly lines. Orvis uses SA fly line to do the same. Check a rod manufacturer’s website for what line they recommend for a specific rod when in doubt.

Matching the line to what you hope to accomplish on the water will greatly improve your angling success, so don’t be afraid to spend a few extra dollars on a premium line that will dial your setup in.  As far as the nuances of brand and type, there’s a ton of options out there right now. We’ll get into some specifics in our next installment where Lenny Gliwa from our team will account for cold vs. warm water lines, fresh vs. salt water, and smooth vs. textured lines to help you narrow down the perfect options for you.

Fly Lines: Understanding the Most Overlooked Part of Your System

Fly Lines: Understanding the Most Overlooked Part of Your System

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